Guangzhou is one of the most advanced cities in China. It is still about 10 years behind HK. There are more poor areas that I came across in Guangzhou than in HK. The quality of food is below that of HK and LA and is more expensive than LA and about same price as HK. The hotel is a great deal though. We stayed at a Holiday Inn for about $70 a night. It is better than any Holiday Inn I have ever seen in the U.S. Plus this included a great breakfast buffet. The taxi service is a lot better than 10 years ago and we avoided the disaster where I was stranded at the wrong train station by a poor taxi driver the last time we were here.
The bureaucracy of China is much more difficult to negotiate than in HK. We had business there that require adherence to Chinese laws and working with banks. It was difficult but then I guess working with American banks is not that easy now as well. I would say that HK is way ahead of Guangzhou in finance and banking. I know that China eventually want the financial center to be Shanghai. But by talking on the phone with banker in Shanghai, it does not appear that they are up to par with Hk yet. But maybe they will catch up in the next 10 years.
We did have a free day so we went to my wife's mother and my own ancestral villages in Taishan. Taishan itself is modernized and so there is a nice highway going from Guangzhou to Taishan. It took about 2 hours on the highway with a stop at a nice, large rest stop along the way. So that part of travel was painless. Once you get to Taishan, the task to find the right village gets more difficult. Even with GPS, a good driver and stopping to ask people, it was difficult. There are no accurate addresses and English and Chinese translations of names often don't match. Seems like all the villages look the same with a huge entrance and a huge courtyard. Both villages had a courtyard with a basketball court. I believe that those, along with a narrow road leading from the main road to the village entrance, are built with money donated by oversea Chinese. My mother in law said that years ago all those areas along with the road would just be dirt and mud.
The houses in both villages are old and not in good shape. Except the house that my father built in the 1980s to replace our original ancestral home. That was by far, the newest house in both villages. In both villages we were greeted by only a few people. Most of the villages are empty because young adults have moved to the cities for work. The few old people are taking care of few young kids in the villages. The fields, which look better than expected, were leased to northerners who migrated to Taishan villages. So Taishan people, who used to be one of the poorest people in China, are now landlords! But obviously, even though the draw to move to other countries or HK isn't as big now, the population of the villages are declining as opportunities in the cities are greater.
The old theory of parents "eating bitterness" to improve the prospects of children is long ingrained in Chinese people. That is one reason why people move out of the country and away from the family. The next generation of these immigrants seemed to have done well in the past. But recent studies in China and Hk seem to say that people leaving the villages to work in the cities leaving children behind to be taken care of by grandparents, have not seen success with their children. Such children left behind, partly because they couldn't go to schools in the cities due to crazy residency laws, have been found to have high drop out rates and depression. They ended up just as poor as their parents were when the parents were young despite the rise of Chinese economy. So if the government change rules and allow people to bring the kids with them to the cities, it would mean more over population of the cities and demise of the villages!
Are most of the houses inhabited or do they sit empty in your parents' village? What do you guess is the population in these villages? What do the people do for money or do they work at all?
ReplyDeleteWas there internet service or cable TV there? Did most Chinese think you were from America or did they not realize it?
-LBOAYM
I don't know how many people still live in the villages. If you get hold of a census it would probably not be accurate. People who moved from the villages to work in the cities may still be counted as village people (not the singers), so that is why their children cannot register for school in the cities.
ReplyDeleteThe day we visited, I saw a dozen people in my wife's mother's village. I saw 5 people in my village. No young man in either case. One young woman who was at mom's village was there because she is still breast feeding her infant son. She said she will go back to the city when he is weaned. The old folks just sat around, one taking care of a grandson. Nobody was working in the fields but they said the fields were rented out to northerners who was not seen. I don't know where these northerners were but I guess the heat was so bad that day, they couldn't work the fields. So the village people get money from renting the fields and from young folks who work in the cities.
The one house I went in had running water and electricity. They had a small tv but I don't know if they have cable. They have no direct gas, so they use propane or wood for their stove. The houses were run down since they are probably 100 years old (except for ours). But they are well built with stone and is cool inside despite the heat outside. The young woman had a smart phone and wifi. So maybe they are ahead of my house!
They knew we are from America once they know which house we were looking for. One old lady claimed to know our family but then she thought my brother in law was my dad. Poor guy, he is less than 50 years old, way younger than ME! The old lady claimed that she had family in Vancouver, but is not related to my dad's friend in Vancouver. She wanted us to relate a message to my dad's friend in Vancouver to see if he knows her family there. She was not shy about asking for money so maybe she was just playing us.
On they way to the villages, we passed couple of schools on the main roads. They look modern with American cars park outside. The few kids we saw were in uniforms. I forgot to ask my dad which was his school. I think all these new schools are built or rebuilt by overseas people and so in such good shape. The teachers are probably from the cities and thus the cars. But as I mentioned, without parental supervision all these maybe wasted on the next generation.